Pigmentation and Sun Protection
Here in Christchurch and in many other parts of the world, the sun is strong, and we’re in the sun a lot. Vitamin D is great for us! Sadly, the sun (without SPF) can be very dangerous, which I’m sure we all know.
I want to briefly explain what pigmentation in the skin actually is. The amount of melanin in our skin determines how light or dark it appears; our melanocytes are the cells that give our skin pigment. The quantity of melanocytes is often influenced by our genes and ethnicity.
Not so ‘fun’ fact:
Blue light exposure (from computers, phones, etc.) is equivalent to sun exposure in what way? Four hours in front of a screen (without SPF or blue light settings off) equals about 30 minutes of sun exposure at midday. Sounds like a big difference? But if you look at your screen time—if it’s 6 hours, 12 hours every couple of days—that adds up. This is why it’s so important to wear SPF every day. Yes, even and especially if you work in an office all day.
What Causes Pigmentation?
There are a few different types of hyperpigmentation. For definition, hyperpigmentation is the gain of pigment in the skin, while hypopigmentation is the loss of pigment in the skin.
Hypopigmentation is often associated with trauma, sun damage, or a skin condition called vitiligo. It’s slightly less common than hyperpigmentation.
Varieties of Pigment: What Type of Pigmentation Do I Have?
Sun Damage/Sun Spots: This often appears as brown lesions or spots on the skin.
Melasma: This is hormonal pigmentation, often caused by hormonal changes (e.g., pregnancy, breastfeeding, change in contraception). It looks like a butterfly mask, often in blocks of pigment, and is usually mirrored on either side of the face. Commonly found on the forehead, upper lip, and tops of the cheeks, this is the hardest type of pigment to treat. Once it’s out, it can be very difficult to get rid of. This is particularly frustrating when doctors prescribe contraception to treat acne, leading to a secondary issue like melasma. Patients often come off the pill still struggling with breakouts and now dealing with melasma as well.
Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation: Often seen as post-acne scarring or after trauma to the dermis. This manifests as purple or red scar tissue on the skin, resembling the appearance of skin after a scab has healed but is not fully gone.
Ephelides (Freckles): These are often part of our genetic makeup and can be difficult to lighten.
Vitiligo: A loss of pigment condition, resulting in white or pale patches compared to one’s natural skin colour.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does pigmentation occur? Often, it results from one of the factors mentioned above: too much sun exposure, hormonal changes, or improperly extracting acne.
Is it genetic? Not always, but ethnicity plays a role in discolouration. The higher you are on the Fitzpatrick scale, the more melanin you have in your cells, making your skin darker and more prone to developing hyperpigmentation.
Is pigmentation cancerous? It’s crucial to get annual skin checks! If a lesion changes, it’s extremely important to seek a mole/skin check. While they can be costly, early detection is vital. The main types I've referred to skin/mole check clinics for are basal cell carcinoma (BCC) and squamous cell carcinoma (SCC).
Basal Cell Carcinoma: This often appears red, can be crusty, and may bleed. It can present as a shiny bump, nodule, or flaky patch.
I had a GP perform a skin check on a client. I noticed every three weeks, during her facial treatments, that a flaky, red, vascular-looking lesion kept changing and didn’t look right. I advised her to seek a second opinion, and she visited a specialised clinic. It turned out to be basal cell carcinoma! I always recommend going to a specialised clinic for a mole/skin check unless your GP is specifically trained in dermatology. My client later told me I may have saved her life, which is why I always share this story to remind clients that it’s okay to seek a second opinion.
Pigmentation During Pregnancy: Melasma
Does it get worse? If untreated, some people’s melasma can worsen or remain the same over time. This truly depends on the type of pigment, whether you're using cosmeceutical-grade products to correct it, and if you’re being sun-smart by using SPF every day.
Skin Discolouration: Around the eyes, hyperpigmentation can also depend on genetics. Consider trying an eye cream with vitamin C and kojic acid.
What Treatments Reduce Melasma?
Tyrosinase Inhibitors
Peels, Aspect Pigment Peel
Jessner Peels
Cosmelan: While the results can be amazing, the downtime is significant. Staying out of the sun for months can be difficult, along with the shedding that can occur for weeks at a time. This treatment may not suit many people’s lifestyles, though the results are impressive.
Why Is Sun Protection So Important?
To prevent undoing what you’ve tried to correct
To prevent SCC, BCC, and melanoma
To prevent existing pigment from worsening
To avoid premature aging, as the sun damages our collagen and elastin, making skin less firm and changing its texture
To prevent fine lines and wrinkles from appearing sooner
SPF Products
UVA rays are responsible for 95% of the UV radiation reaching the earth’s surface.
There are two types of sunscreen: chemical and physical. The main difference is how they protect you from damaging rays.
Physical SPF products reflect UVA and UVB rays from the sun.
Chemical SPF products absorb UVA and UVB rays.
Being in Christchurch, it's especially important to protect your skin. You may not realise how often you’re exposed to these rays.
How Much SPF Should I Be Applying?
Use about a teaspoon, which should cover your face, neck, ears, and always apply the excess to the back of your hands. Driving daily can lead to sun spots over time. Reapply every two hours if you’re outside or swimming.
“My foundation has SPF in it! Yay… WRONG! You’re not protected.”
Think of this as only 1% secondary coverage. It doesn’t provide the protection that clinical or cosmeceutical SPF does. Makeup lacks the delivery system to adequately protect your skin from UVA/UVB rays. Always apply SPF under your foundation.
What Step Do I Apply SPF?
Cleanse, apply serum if you use one in the morning, moisturise, then apply SPF before makeup. Think of SPF as the last shield before makeup; your makeup can go over the SPF, ensuring protection from the sun.
Aspect Skincare
The Aspect physical SPF we stock in our clinic here at Belle Amour Studio is formulated with:
Zinc Oxide (22.7%): Provides broad-spectrum UVA and UVB protection while safeguarding the skin from external free radicals.
Glycerin: Binds moisture to provide long-lasting hydration.
Some people prefer chemical SPF if they dislike the white appearance of zinc. A white cast may occur upon application, but it typically disappears after about five minutes.
Chemical ingredients absorb into the skin, turning the sun’s rays into heat, which is then expelled from the body, preventing damage to our skin. However, if the product is of low quality—often those found in supermarkets—the ingredients may not effectively protect your skin. This is why dermal therapists are cautious about supermarket or makeup store SPF; we’re not just trying to sell you something.
Different SPF types suit different skin types and lifestyles. Book a consultation or send us a message, and I will help you find the right one.
ASPECT SKINCARE:
The Aspect physical SPF we stock in our clinic here at Belle Amour Studio is:
Formulated with…
• Zinc Oxide (22.7%) | Provides broad spectrum UVA and UVB protection while protecting the skin from external free radicals.
Glycerin | Binds moisture to provide long lasting hydration.
Some people prefer the chemical if they don’t like the white appearance of Zinc (there can be a white cast upon application, however once the product has been on the skin for 5 minutes this often disappears.
Chemical ingredients often absorbs into the skin, they then absorb the sun’s rays, turn them into heat, and are let into the body so they cannot damage our precious skin. However if its a low quality cosmetic product, often from Mecca/Supermarkets. The product’s ingredients don’t have the ability to do this. Hence why you will still get burnt or over time not be as protected and develop cancerous cells. This is why dermal therapists are so against supermarket/makeup store’s SPF, we aren’t just trying to sell you something.
There are different types for different reasons, skin types and lifestyles. So book in for a consultation or send us a message and I will prescribe you the correct one.
How to reduce pigmentation at home?
Tyrosinase inhibitors - these are something in the facials I do here in Christchurch they’re in the Pigment Punch Aspect skincare offers, they're in the peels, and they are your NEW BEST FRIEND.
I will break this down as simply as I can, your melanocyte being damaged by trauma, sun, or brought out due to hormones causes hyper pigmentation.
If you’re doing facials to reduce this pigment, or using skincare to reduce it… You don’t want to undo it when you go outside, right?
So, when using a product with a Tyrosinase inhibitor in it, this is a blocker! Yay! A blocker for your skin/melanocyte to get ANY darker when you’re going into the sun. This is will prevent you undoing progress and wasting money you’ve spent on your skin trying to lighten your pigmentation. This is found in Aspect skincare Pigment Punch and many Aspect facials we offer here.
Use the code ‘FIRST10’ for a discount on your first Aspect order with Belle Amour Studio, link below.
Pigment inhibitors:
Hydroquinone cream (get from your GP)
Kojic acid
Resorcinol
VItamin C, Salicylic acid, Glycolic acid, Retinols, Mandelic acid, Lactic acid, Cirtric acid, Enzymatic (such as Bromelain) exfoliants, aren’t Tyrosinase inhibitors, however it will help lighten pigment. Remember not to use VItamin C if you’re breakout prone/congested. The acidity of Vitamin C feeds/fuel breakouts and oils. So opt for everything on this list.
THE BEST SERUM TO HELP… Aspect skincare Pigment punch which contains these active ingredients that are melanin inhibitors. I will link it here to buy now, its $155 and normally lasts me 3 months.
Use the code ‘FIRST10’ for a discount on your first Aspect order with Belle Amour Studio.
Treatments to help to reduce hyperpigmentation…
The fun part! How to reduce pigmentation?
The facials that we do at Belle Amour Studio here on the Gold Coast are…
The Aspect Pigment Peel, prep is needed with the Lactobotanical peel. This is lighten pigmentation, break down stubborn patches of pigment, smooth scaring, and hyper pigmentation that comes along with post inflammatory pigment. The salicylic acid exfoliates to life and lighten that old damaged skin cells. The Kojic acid and vitamin C lightens.
Modified Jessner peels, these are intense shedding peels that require downtime and self neutralise, They are amazing for pigmentation! They require preparation also, please book in for a consultation and we can get your skin ready for this.
Microneedling will also help with sun damage and photo damage, as well as Melasma. The micro needles break down the melanocyte that gives cells their colour. You cannot put any heat on hormonal pigmentation so IPL/laser should never be done on pigmentation that is Melasma. Microneedling is the best way to lighten pigment from the sun, scarring, hormonal and has the least amount of downtime out of most pigment lightening treatments.
Shhh here’s a secret. Something extra for you… This can be done in conjunction with these clinical skin treatments we offer:
• Hydroquinone cream. You can get this from your GP. It’s a prescribed cream you have stubborn pigment, especially Melasma that will not shift. This will help lift and lighten, however pairing it with Microneedling or a Peel/corrective facials will help.
Working in Bundall/close to Broadbeach, I notice the hardest part with the environment here is continuing to remain out of the sun. Obviously you still want to be able to do this. However SPF, reapplying throughout the day, and wearing a cap/hat if you’re out all day! Much like tanning skin, your pigmentation will tan.
I hope this helped in some way. Whether that be what type of pigmentation you have, why you have it, how to reduce it, or taught you something about SPF. I know we hear it all the time, but wear SPF everyday - and a good quality one. It could save your life, and I can assure you it will help the appearance of the skin in years to come. I always remind people, you only get one skin, and it’s the first thing people look at when they see you. Mention this blog and get $20 off any facial here at Belle Amour Studio.