Cosmeceutical vs. Cosmetics

The main question I get asked in clinic is ‘what skincare should I use?’ My answer always begins with explaining this difference…

Cosmeceutical grade skincare can be found in clinics that you have to be trained to to sell/stock the product. Often found in clinics that offer clinical treatments alongside retail home care. Not just a retail store such as Mecca, Chemist Warhouse, or Sephora. These stores listed sell cosmetic products. Not cosmeceutical products. 

So what’s the difference in this? And why is the price point sometimes higher? I say sometimes as some of the product at Mecca/Sephora is still extremely expensive which makes my skin crawl. Cosmetics only temporarily (if at all) help the feel of your skin. Temporary help is sometimes seen as the product works on top of your already dead skin… (Cheap and easy to manufacture products do this).

Cosmeceutical grade skincare treat the root cause of the skin concern by working right down to where your blood supply is. This is because the formulation of the ingredients have been produced to have the delivery systems to be able to penetrate to this deeper level. This is called our dermal layer, the dead skin on top we feel, that’s called our epi-dermal layer. No change happens here as the skin is already dead. 

Cosmeceuticals contain high concentrations such as AHA’s, BHA’s, Retinols, Vitamin C’s. Encapsulation technology aids in deep penetration of these active ingredients. You cannot buy something from retail/makeup stores and think there will be permanent change. Especially for some concerns like acne, anti ageing, and pigmentation. You can get some quick, temporary relief from a moisturiser. However once it’s gone the skin will remain dry in that dermal layer.

Aspect skincare (and other cosmeceutical grade skin care) have delivery systems, stability and pure form that achieve change and results in your skin! 

Rules to make it easy: 

Skincare simplified - I hope, if this is too much information this blog allows you to have a free consultation to chat further about facial options for your skin. When you hear “Retinol” and “Vitamin C” what do you think? A trendy serum everyone uses? Let me help you stop using them wrong…

Vitamin C:  You should NOT be using this if you’re breakout/blackhead/oil prone. L-Ascorbic acid (pure Vit.C) loves oils. It fuels and feeds breakouts often making them worse. This is due to the acidity of the vitamin. Please do not use a Vitamin C just because someone with clear skin recommended it. Instead: If you want to brighten trying a product with Kojic acid in it. This will lighten post inflammatory scaring, the same goes for Glycolic acid and/or Retinol. 

VItamin C is perfect for: Ageing skin, fine lines and wrinkles, pigmentation, dehydrating and redness without congestion, lightening scars with NO active congestion, anyone who wants the perfect anti ageing, collagen and elastin stimulating skincare product.

Vitamin B: EVERYONE can use it! Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) & Vitamin B3 (Nicotinamide) are the main molecules in our skin’s moisturising factor. As this exists in your skin, it knows what to do with it. Often if someone has an impaired lipid barrier a B serum will help repair this. Easy!  

If you’re dry, oily, or have dull skin is this the perfect starting point to get your lipid barrier functioning perfectly again.

Retinol/Vitamin A: Great for ageing, scarring, breakouts, dullness, texture. Not good for an impaired sensitive barrier, or someone who has been on Accutane or any kind. The only thing that gives Retinol a bad name is it being misused or wrongfully prescribed. Use this NIGHT time only (it makes you sun/light sensitive). And introduce it slowly, every 2nd night for the first 1-2 weeks. Then build to every night.

Your skin may not be the right candidate for what you see someone else or an influencer on Instagram use.  This is why seeing someone who specialises in corrective dermal treatments, NOT Mecca or Influencers recommendations. Anyone in a clinic will be able to access your skin correctly as I know this can all be a lot of information to remember. 

I’ve seen so many people skin barriers ruined for a very long time due to using the wrong products. Always remember, if you’re confused… Please buy from clinics/cosmeceutical grade, not cosmetic like from makeup stores. 

Your ideal routine:

Cleansing:

Should be done once in the morning, after any exercise or sweating. Then a double cleanse at night. The first cleanse gets off makeup, dirt, and free radicals from the air. The second cleanse properly cleanses the skin, pores etc.

Cell turnover:

Your skin’s cellular turnover happens every 21-28 days. When we exfoliate the skin - we boost this. Which is great! Due to this cellular turnover timeframe this is also why a monthly facial is ideal. We want the cells to turnover and renew - as the old ones are what end up being dull, dry, or congested. Our new cells are smooth, clear, & are what make the skin appear refined! 

This is why our skin looks great after a peel or Dermaplaning! Cleansing is obviously to wipe off makeup, sweat, sebum, and free radicals from the air off our skin. The less we cleanse the more build up/congestion can appear. The better the cleanser/exfoliant, the happier your skin will be.

Exfoliants:

They are magic! These are something I will also dedicate a whole blog to talking about peels e.t.c. However I will briefly explain it. We should exfoliate 1 time per week, if you’re congested or oily, you can do twice. However no more than this! There is a lot of talk around exfoliants… 

AHA’s and BHA’s are talked about the most common, these are in all the Aspect peels I use. Alpha Hydroxy Acid’s (chemical/liquid exfoliants) and Beta Hydroxy Acids (physical exfoliants). There are also Enzymatic exfoliants, these are Enzymes that worked like little pac men on the skin and eat away at debris. 

My personal favourites from Aspect are the Exfol-L serum, this is a daily exfoliating serum. For in the shower I loved the Illuminating Polish, I scrub it gentle over my skin, leave it on for 5 minutes, then scrub again and rinse with water.

Moisturising. This comes down to your skin type, plus also the feeling you like your moisturiser to have. Some people like to to be light and absorb in. If you’re like me, I love a heavier moisturiser that leaves me feeling extremely glowy! Moisturise in the morning either under your SPF (SPF always goes last on). Then at night it will be last thing you should be applying. 

Eye cream: Find one that treats your concerns, whether that for anti ageing around the eye, loss of firmness, brightening, or just hydration. Use it around the orbital bone, around the crows feet. But don’t use directly on your eye lid.

Sun Protection: Being in Queensland it is such a sunny state that this is so important especially after a facial or any type of exfoliation. I’m going to leave SPF’s and sun damage prevention and solutions to a separate blog all together. But SPF is easy again, this should be worn everyday no matter what. Yes, even if it’s raining, yes even if it’s cold, yes even if you work inside. YES especially if you work at a computer all day… This is will be it’s own blog so please keep an eye out for this. 

Common questions:

1. I often get asked, ‘Can sunscreen cause acne?’ in the short, most likely no. Normally there is something else in the bottle that your skin isn’t liking. More so than it causing your acne.

2. Another frequent question I get is, will makeup cause acne? Or, will skincare cause acne? Both are a no, makeup should never be the sole cause of acne, if you’re cleansing and washing it off properly. Same with skincare, if you’re using it correctly, and introducing the correct things slowly, it will never be the cause of acne.

Hopefully this has educated you about something you could add or even stop using from now on.

If you would like to learn more, all of skin consultations are normally $30, and are redeemable on Aspect skincare, a facial, dermaplaning, signature enzyme facials, or Microneedling.

If you mention this blog you can have $20 off any skin treatment. Plus use code ‘FIRST10’ for a discount on your first Aspect order. Free shipping on orders over $250.